Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Living in History

I'm now in a different country, on my seventh or eighth (or ninth?) return visit to one of my favourite cities on the entire planet: Amsterdam.  I came here for the first time way back in 1971, when my high school trip to Italy encountered an unexpected snag and about 20 of us out of the group of 100 were stuck with an unplanned 16-hour stopover here.  In the best tradition of European hospitality, KLM laid on a chartered bus for us, drove us into the city, took us on one of the famous canal boat rides, treated us to an early dinner, and then returned us to the airport for our onward flight to Rome.

That was it -- I was hooked on Amsterdam.  And I've been hooked on the place ever since.  There are a whole range of reasons why.  Two that might spring to mind right away are, as it happens, not true.  No, I do not come here to get high in the infamous cafes and no, I do not come here to party my brains out in the numerous gay bars.  Things like that just aren't my style.

The city centre of Amsterdam is like a living museum, with amazing old architecture from the city's "golden age" everywhere you look.  That, for me, is one big attraction.  For anyone as history-minded as myself, there is no such thing as a boring view in central Amsterdam!  It's also fascinating to see how the old buildings are re-invented to serve more modern needs while preserving their outward appearance.  A good example is shown by the Crowne Plaza Hotel, my favourite stay in the city.  It's a modern, seven-story building which wraps around and incorporates several historic houses.  In fact, the room I got this time is actually on the top level of one of those houses.

It's a full suite.  And before you go jumping to conclusions about my spending habits, I hasten to point out that I was upgraded here by the hotel on the basis of my Platinum membership in the chain's frequent stay plan.  That upgrade includes use of the club lounge with free snacks and drinks all day, and free breakfast either in the lounge or in the restaurant.  Also, a 25% discount on all food and drink ordered in the restaurant is included.  I don't know many hotels anywhere that give so many bonuses in return for membership at the upper level of their chain's program!

It's in a prime location, too.  This hotel is a 2-minute walk from the Central Station, where you arrive by express train from the airport.  The station is also the hub of all the public transport, including the famous trams and the metro.  Buy a day pass or a week pass and you're all set.  Most of the canal boat tours leave from the canal right in front of the station too, and there really is no better way to see the city and get oriented to the layout than a boat tour.  The boats travel around the central canal system and part of the harbour, giving you a good overview of the key role of water in the city's life, and of the best and most imposing historic buildings and monuments.

One short block away from the Crowne Plaza is one end of the Nieuwendijk, which is a pedestrians-only shopping street, winding through the heart of the city.  And next to a boat tour, walking is the second-best way to get around in Amsterdam.  Don't even think about trying to drive here -- you will cut yourself out of 3/4 of the best places to see!

Next to the history, the other prime attraction of Amsterdam is the people-watching.  And a great way to do that is on the open plaza called the Leidseplein.  There are a number of cafes and bars fronting on the Leidseplein, each with its own outdoor seating.  Several different tram lines cross here so there are always people coming and going.  It's popular with outdoor entertainers too.  These can be jugglers, acrobats, dancers, musicians, you name it.  My favourite activity here is actually an inactivity -- just buy a beer, sit at a cafe table, and watch the world go by for a while.  The infinite variety of people in Amsterdam constantly surprises me, and it's always entertaining too!

That is, if and when the weather cooperates.  Often it doesn't, and today was a perfect example.  We had a few dry hours this morning, although the sky remained cloudy (a typical condition here) and I did manage to squeeze in the boat tour which I always do.  Of course, the tour boat always takes you past the same sights: the varied designs of the gables on the old houses:


The extra-large mansions of the wealthiest merchants on the "Golden bend" of the Herengracht (the "Gentlemen's Canal"):


The famous "Seven Bridges" along the Reguliersgracht (sorry, no can translate!):


(some day I met get an adequate photograph of that particular sight!)

And then there are the inevitable "results" of building a city on reclaimed silt land, colloquially known as the "kissing houses":


After the canal tour arrives back at the Central Station, there's a chance to admire the view of the boat basin (only partly shown here) and the domed St. Nicholas Church.  And right beside the church on the right is the entrance to the street Zeedijk which leads to the infamous red light district!



Right after the cruise, the rain moved in.  Every time it seemed to stop, I grabbed my coat and headed out, only to get rained on again.  Well, all I can say from frequently repeated experience is that you just have to expect this if you come to Amsterdam.  But since I have often visited all the museums I want to see, and I am not much of a shopper, that leaves precious little to do on a rainy day in Amsterdam.  It doesn't matter.  As always, I'm glad to be back in a city where individual people count far more than anybody's ideas of what people ought to be like.

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