Back before I was even born, the Canadian humorist Eric Nicol wrote in his book The Roving I about the dangers of coping with Parisian traffic. He advised pedestrians to run with other pedestrians in packs, because the average European car couldn't take on more than 5 pedestrians or 2 bicycles at once. I've already been reminded of his advice half a dozen times and I've not yet been in Paris for as much as 8 hours.
Although the river cruise is now over, the package included a 2-night add-on in Paris. We travelled from Luxembourg City on the renowned TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse), and let me tell you, we definitely hit some really grandes vitesses during the stretch from Metz to Paris.
So, just to update my map, here's the latest version showing my travels up until arrival in Paris on September 10.
Since our train arrived in Paris at lunchtime, we were promptly boarded onto coaches for our included city sightseeing tour before being taken to our hotel for check-in. Paris is a difficult city for this kind of tour, with the main sights scattered randomly all over the map. Our driver did a lot of zig-zagging back and forth but we did cover the ground in 3 hours or so. Almost all of these pictures were taken on the run through the windows of a coach.
First then, and not in any particular order, the big sights, starting with the Cathedral of Notre-Dame:
The classic Paris Opera, now known as the Opera Garnier after its architect, to distinguish it from the newer Opera Bastille:
The courtyard of the Louvre museum, with the glass pyramid over the underground main entrance.
The gold-domed church of Les Invalides, the burial place of Napoleon Bonaparte. Behind this church in the heart of the Invalides complex is an older church which was the site of the premiere performance of the monumental Requiem by Hector Berlioz
Do I really need to explain the next one? Of course not. Instead, I give you the ultimate explanation of the purpose of the Eiffel Tower, as given by 1960s American comedian Alan King: "Well, they built it so they could stick a red light on top of it so that airplanes wouldn't hit it." By the way, next year marks the centenary of the completion of this world-famous landmark -- which was originally supposed to be dismantled in 1909, after 20 years.
And the imposing Arc de Triomphe at the Place Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. We went right around the arch on the wildest, scariest traffic circle in Europe -- and then, to get out of it again, our driver basically bullied his way across multiple lanes of traffic to get to the exit he wanted. The Etoile roundabout is a classic demonstration of survival of the fittest.
Less well known, but beautiful in its own whimsical way, is the Petit Palais. It was built as an exhibition hall for the World's Fair of 1900 and now serves as one of the many great art museums of the city.
As well as these great monuments of art, history, and culture, Paris is amply provided with deluxe shopping areas where the rule of survival is simple: if you have to look at the price, you can't afford it.
On a quirkier level, if you've always wanted to drive a Maserati or a Lamborghini you can rent a beauty like this for 20 minutes. Our guide didn't mention the price, and I didn't ask (see rule above previous photo). I shudder to think of the security deposit required, the cost of the rental, and above all the repair bills when (not if) you get into an accident. I put it that way because all drivers in Paris act like they are certifiably insane.
Just at the end of the tour, I caught this scene of quintessential Parisian life -- the sidewalk cafés, the classic old signpost for advertising with its domed roof, the six-story apartment buildings.
Our hotel, chosen by Avalon, is very deluxe indeed. I feel self-conscious walking around in a casual shirt and trousers. I feel as if I ought to be wearing a suit or -- in the evening -- a dinner jacket. No one else seems to think anything of it. But I did find a cute little bistro across the street and had a perfectly nice light dinner with wine there.
My one full day in Paris turned into a day of a bit of touring and much rest and relaxation. Some people would say that this is a weird place to choose for an R&R break, but the smart ones listen when their body says, "Enough!"
I went out for a while this morning, did a bit of shopping, but bought precisely nothing -- I'm really not a notable shopper. I rode on a couple of Metro trains to get to the Opera Garnier, and the adjacent shopping districts. I then walked north the short distance to the Église de la Trinité. Seems like each time I come to Paris, I have to visit the home church of one of the great French organist-composers. The last time it was Maurice Duruflé and St. Étienne du Mont. This time, it was Olivier Messiaen, the most famous and unique French organist-composer of the twentieth century, who served as the organist of la Trinité for over sixty years.
In fact, some experts say that his organ masterpieces will only sound as they ought to when played on this particular organ with its specific combinations of sounds and with the slightly out of kilter tuning which prevailed in some of the stops during Messiaen's lifetime. After hearing a few of the master's own recordings, made at la Trinité of course, I'm inclined to agree -- there's a certain special aspect to Messiaen's harmonic and sound palette which doesn't come across sounding quite the same way on any other instrument that I have heard.
After visiting the interior of la Trinité, and hoping (in vain) for another lucky hit with an organ practice session, I crossed the street to a café for lunch -- because, after all, what is a visit to Paris without a drink and a meal in a sidewalk café?
Post lunch, I returned to my hotel for a rather late (2:45 p.m.) afternoon nap and more relax time. But I did have one final Avalon experience that night, and that was a 9:00 p.m. tour of Paris by night, when so much of the city is dramatically illuminated. No explanation needed for any of the individual photos in this group, other than to say that this must be how Paris acquired the epithet of "City of Light."
I called this post an "Interlude" because my visit to Paris lasted less than 48 hours. I could have stayed longer if I wanted, but I've been to Paris before and I was being called by the lure of places never seen and routes never taken. So, on the morning after that nightlights tour, I said farewell to all and sundry from the Avalon tour group and took a taxi to the Gare de Lyon. There I boarded a Lyria train to Basel, beginning the next stage of my adventures.
* * * * * * * * * *
Helpful Hint for Paris
[1] Don't drive in Paris. Don't even think about driving in Paris. The drivers in this city are all "total and complete crazy" (quote from a favourite movie). Every. Single. One.
[2] Buy single Metro tickets. Virtually all sights of interest to visitors are in Zones 1 & 2. A single ticket is €1.90. A day pass is €11.65, and does include some admissions and discounts. But you will need to research those extras at the website of the RATP (transit agency) and then decide if a day pass is worth it. Otherwise, you'd need to take 6 rides in 1 day before you would save anything over single ticket prices. Here's the link to the website: RATP Paris Transit
[3] On the subject of the Metro: it's vast, convoluted, and confusing if you don't do your homework first. RATP's website also has a quick trip finder that will give you the fastest route and travel time to the station you want, with connecting points. Probably a good idea to write all of that down so you remember it, since some stations and trains don't have wifi yet. In the stations and connecting stations, you need to know the endpoint of the line, to know which platform to use. Example of an overhead sign: "2 PORTE DAUPHINE." The platform for trains going the other way on the same line will say: "2 NATION." Porte Dauphine and Nation are the two endpoint stations of Line 2.
Remember: Line # ____ Direction (end of line) __________ Your station __________. With those three pieces of information, no problem.
Older trains on some lines have a little metal knob on the doors which must be turned to make the doors open whether you are getting in or getting out.
Many stations are not accessible to people with mobility issues.
[4] Brasseries and cafés are the quintessential Parisian experience -- but in many areas they fill up to bursting at lunch hour. If you want to get a table, you need to arrive for lunch by 12:00 noon. Cafés and brasseries that remain open into the evening are often much more peaceful at those hours.
First then, and not in any particular order, the big sights, starting with the Cathedral of Notre-Dame:
The classic Paris Opera, now known as the Opera Garnier after its architect, to distinguish it from the newer Opera Bastille:
The courtyard of the Louvre museum, with the glass pyramid over the underground main entrance.
The gold-domed church of Les Invalides, the burial place of Napoleon Bonaparte. Behind this church in the heart of the Invalides complex is an older church which was the site of the premiere performance of the monumental Requiem by Hector Berlioz
Do I really need to explain the next one? Of course not. Instead, I give you the ultimate explanation of the purpose of the Eiffel Tower, as given by 1960s American comedian Alan King: "Well, they built it so they could stick a red light on top of it so that airplanes wouldn't hit it." By the way, next year marks the centenary of the completion of this world-famous landmark -- which was originally supposed to be dismantled in 1909, after 20 years.
And the imposing Arc de Triomphe at the Place Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. We went right around the arch on the wildest, scariest traffic circle in Europe -- and then, to get out of it again, our driver basically bullied his way across multiple lanes of traffic to get to the exit he wanted. The Etoile roundabout is a classic demonstration of survival of the fittest.
Less well known, but beautiful in its own whimsical way, is the Petit Palais. It was built as an exhibition hall for the World's Fair of 1900 and now serves as one of the many great art museums of the city.
As well as these great monuments of art, history, and culture, Paris is amply provided with deluxe shopping areas where the rule of survival is simple: if you have to look at the price, you can't afford it.
On a quirkier level, if you've always wanted to drive a Maserati or a Lamborghini you can rent a beauty like this for 20 minutes. Our guide didn't mention the price, and I didn't ask (see rule above previous photo). I shudder to think of the security deposit required, the cost of the rental, and above all the repair bills when (not if) you get into an accident. I put it that way because all drivers in Paris act like they are certifiably insane.
Just at the end of the tour, I caught this scene of quintessential Parisian life -- the sidewalk cafés, the classic old signpost for advertising with its domed roof, the six-story apartment buildings.
Our hotel, chosen by Avalon, is very deluxe indeed. I feel self-conscious walking around in a casual shirt and trousers. I feel as if I ought to be wearing a suit or -- in the evening -- a dinner jacket. No one else seems to think anything of it. But I did find a cute little bistro across the street and had a perfectly nice light dinner with wine there.
My one full day in Paris turned into a day of a bit of touring and much rest and relaxation. Some people would say that this is a weird place to choose for an R&R break, but the smart ones listen when their body says, "Enough!"
I went out for a while this morning, did a bit of shopping, but bought precisely nothing -- I'm really not a notable shopper. I rode on a couple of Metro trains to get to the Opera Garnier, and the adjacent shopping districts. I then walked north the short distance to the Église de la Trinité. Seems like each time I come to Paris, I have to visit the home church of one of the great French organist-composers. The last time it was Maurice Duruflé and St. Étienne du Mont. This time, it was Olivier Messiaen, the most famous and unique French organist-composer of the twentieth century, who served as the organist of la Trinité for over sixty years.
In fact, some experts say that his organ masterpieces will only sound as they ought to when played on this particular organ with its specific combinations of sounds and with the slightly out of kilter tuning which prevailed in some of the stops during Messiaen's lifetime. After hearing a few of the master's own recordings, made at la Trinité of course, I'm inclined to agree -- there's a certain special aspect to Messiaen's harmonic and sound palette which doesn't come across sounding quite the same way on any other instrument that I have heard.
After visiting the interior of la Trinité, and hoping (in vain) for another lucky hit with an organ practice session, I crossed the street to a café for lunch -- because, after all, what is a visit to Paris without a drink and a meal in a sidewalk café?
Post lunch, I returned to my hotel for a rather late (2:45 p.m.) afternoon nap and more relax time. But I did have one final Avalon experience that night, and that was a 9:00 p.m. tour of Paris by night, when so much of the city is dramatically illuminated. No explanation needed for any of the individual photos in this group, other than to say that this must be how Paris acquired the epithet of "City of Light."
I called this post an "Interlude" because my visit to Paris lasted less than 48 hours. I could have stayed longer if I wanted, but I've been to Paris before and I was being called by the lure of places never seen and routes never taken. So, on the morning after that nightlights tour, I said farewell to all and sundry from the Avalon tour group and took a taxi to the Gare de Lyon. There I boarded a Lyria train to Basel, beginning the next stage of my adventures.
* * * * * * * * * *
Helpful Hint for Paris
[1] Don't drive in Paris. Don't even think about driving in Paris. The drivers in this city are all "total and complete crazy" (quote from a favourite movie). Every. Single. One.
[2] Buy single Metro tickets. Virtually all sights of interest to visitors are in Zones 1 & 2. A single ticket is €1.90. A day pass is €11.65, and does include some admissions and discounts. But you will need to research those extras at the website of the RATP (transit agency) and then decide if a day pass is worth it. Otherwise, you'd need to take 6 rides in 1 day before you would save anything over single ticket prices. Here's the link to the website: RATP Paris Transit
[3] On the subject of the Metro: it's vast, convoluted, and confusing if you don't do your homework first. RATP's website also has a quick trip finder that will give you the fastest route and travel time to the station you want, with connecting points. Probably a good idea to write all of that down so you remember it, since some stations and trains don't have wifi yet. In the stations and connecting stations, you need to know the endpoint of the line, to know which platform to use. Example of an overhead sign: "2 PORTE DAUPHINE." The platform for trains going the other way on the same line will say: "2 NATION." Porte Dauphine and Nation are the two endpoint stations of Line 2.
Remember: Line # ____ Direction (end of line) __________ Your station __________. With those three pieces of information, no problem.
Older trains on some lines have a little metal knob on the doors which must be turned to make the doors open whether you are getting in or getting out.
Many stations are not accessible to people with mobility issues.
[4] Brasseries and cafés are the quintessential Parisian experience -- but in many areas they fill up to bursting at lunch hour. If you want to get a table, you need to arrive for lunch by 12:00 noon. Cafés and brasseries that remain open into the evening are often much more peaceful at those hours.
[5] Popular tourist attractions here, like those in London and Rome and everywhere else that absolutely everyone wants to go, have enormous long lines. If you can buy advanced tickets in peak season, do it! Otherwise, try to arrive half an hour before they open in the morning and hope for the best.
[6] On tipping: always check your restaurant menu and bill for the words "15% service compris" or something similar. This means that a service charge is already included in the price you pay. This is the customary procedure. All taxes are typically included as well. Servers may still try to trick or charm you into tipping them additionally. Be aware.
[7] Hate to say it, but Paris today is one of the worst cities in Europe for pickpockets, and they now work in gangs. SRO in the Metro train or crowded on the platform? Stand with your back to the wall. Someone approaches you with a petition or pamphlet? Wave them away and walk quickly on by. Little child crying for Mommy? Ignore the kid. DO NOT STOP! I know it sounds inhumane, but during the first five seconds you are listening to the kid or the person with the petition, something valuable will disappear from your pocket, your purse, your shoulder bag, or your backpack. Yes, they really are that quick. And yes, the petition holder and the crying kid are in on the trick. Travel in the city with minimal items of value and try to avoid crowded areas. I can attest to the terrible hassles that follow the disappearance of a wallet (1987 in Amsterdam, when it was the pickpocketing capital of Europe) and take extra precautions in cities like Paris that have known serious issues.
[6] On tipping: always check your restaurant menu and bill for the words "15% service compris" or something similar. This means that a service charge is already included in the price you pay. This is the customary procedure. All taxes are typically included as well. Servers may still try to trick or charm you into tipping them additionally. Be aware.
[7] Hate to say it, but Paris today is one of the worst cities in Europe for pickpockets, and they now work in gangs. SRO in the Metro train or crowded on the platform? Stand with your back to the wall. Someone approaches you with a petition or pamphlet? Wave them away and walk quickly on by. Little child crying for Mommy? Ignore the kid. DO NOT STOP! I know it sounds inhumane, but during the first five seconds you are listening to the kid or the person with the petition, something valuable will disappear from your pocket, your purse, your shoulder bag, or your backpack. Yes, they really are that quick. And yes, the petition holder and the crying kid are in on the trick. Travel in the city with minimal items of value and try to avoid crowded areas. I can attest to the terrible hassles that follow the disappearance of a wallet (1987 in Amsterdam, when it was the pickpocketing capital of Europe) and take extra precautions in cities like Paris that have known serious issues.
A 40-hour stopover in Paris leads to two scenic drives off the city, one by day and one by night, and a collection of helpful hints for any newbies planning to visit this amazing city for the first time.
ReplyDelete