If there's one must-do item on my Halifax list every time I come here, it's to spend time walking along Water Street and the adjacent Harbourwalk. This trip, I've done some walking in that area on every day of my 3-day visit, which is why the weather in all these photos keeps changing.
Halifax has been defined by the sea and ships in many different ways for its entire lifetime, so this part of the city -- more than any other -- is where the soul of Halifax truly resides.
The narrower northerly part of the Harbour, where two bridges cross to Dartmouth, is occupied by piers, shipyards, and the Royal Canadian Navy dockyard -- the fleet's Atlantic headquarters. The tourist's region of Water Street starts just south of there, at the Nova Scotia Casino. Big, modern, and ugly -- nuff said. Besides, once you get inside the Casino, you'll never see anything else -- right? The same can be said of the modern Purdy's Wharf office complex. Pass on that too.
South of the Casino and Purdy's Wharf is the Marriott Hotel. Big and beautiful -- but I need to forget my Scottish ancestry to stay there. It's a definite "big splurge."
The south side of the hotel is the place to start your walk. What you see in front of you is a shopping mall like no other. The Historic Properties complex is housed in a set of seventeenth-century stone warehouses with timber roofs, or warehouses built of wood throughout, and it's worth it to wander through here just to study the heavy-duty architecture.
Some of the stores and restaurants are worth checking out, too -- including a couple of my old favourites, the Lower Deck pub in a warehouse, and Salty's in a wooden building right on the water's edge. Lunch on the patio at Salty's is a compulsory delight for me. This restaurant has the best lobster roll I've ever tasted in my life -- anywhere.
Some of the stores and restaurants are worth checking out, too -- including a couple of my old favourites, the Lower Deck pub in a warehouse, and Salty's in a wooden building right on the water's edge. Lunch on the patio at Salty's is a compulsory delight for me. This restaurant has the best lobster roll I've ever tasted in my life -- anywhere.
At this point you can detour across Water Street to the final block of Granville Street, a pedestrian walking street lined with more historic buildings housing shops and restaurants.
As you come out of the Historic Properties area, you find yourself at the Halifax Ferry Terminal. There are two ferry routes to central Dartmouth (Alderney) and southern Dartmouth (Woodside). There are some nice parks around Alderney including the southern end of the historic Shubenacadie Canal to the Bay of Fundy. A short walk will also bring you into quiet streets lined with old wooden houses.
The Woodside area is mainly industrial, but just north of the Woodside terminal is a regional park where a walking path takes you along a hillside with panoramic views of the harbour. When complete, this Dartmouth Harbourwalk will take you all the way north to Alderney, thus linking the two ferry tours for a circle tour on foot.
Here's a quick video panorama from the hill of the entire Halifax waterfront.
The ferry to Woodside gives you a grandstand view of the downtown area of Halifax. Since the ferries are part of the municipal transit system, the one-way fare is just $2.50 -- and that makes this by far the cheapest harbour cruise on offer! Here, I'm looking straight over the historic Cable Wharf and up Carmichael Street to the Old Town Clock and the Citadel.
The Woodside area is mainly industrial, but just north of the Woodside terminal is a regional park where a walking path takes you along a hillside with panoramic views of the harbour. When complete, this Dartmouth Harbourwalk will take you all the way north to Alderney, thus linking the two ferry tours for a circle tour on foot.
Here's a quick video panorama from the hill of the entire Halifax waterfront.
The ferry to Woodside gives you a grandstand view of the downtown area of Halifax. Since the ferries are part of the municipal transit system, the one-way fare is just $2.50 -- and that makes this by far the cheapest harbour cruise on offer! Here, I'm looking straight over the historic Cable Wharf and up Carmichael Street to the Old Town Clock and the Citadel.
Outside the terminal, this modern clock tower actually houses a historic clock which was originally installed in the naval dockyard in 1772. It still has to be wound twice weekly. The clock is working better than I am -- I have to be wound up daily with a couple of cups of coffee to get me going!
The next big sight is the line of old warehouse buildings stretching out along Cable Wharf. Just south of Cable Wharf, a new apartment complex is under construction, with two wings projecting out like old-style wharves into the harbour.
Since this construction site is blocking part of the Harbourwalk, there's a temporary bypass in the form of the Seabridge, a floating pontoon bridge going across the front of the construction site from the outer end of Cable Wharf.
Coming ashore at the far end of the Seabridge, you find yourself right outside the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. If the Seabridge doesn't appeal to you, or if it's temporarily closed, you can go around by land on Water Street, passing by the front of the Museum. This is one of the finest museums devoted to the sea and ships that I have ever visited.
The next big sight is the line of old warehouse buildings stretching out along Cable Wharf. Just south of Cable Wharf, a new apartment complex is under construction, with two wings projecting out like old-style wharves into the harbour.
Since this construction site is blocking part of the Harbourwalk, there's a temporary bypass in the form of the Seabridge, a floating pontoon bridge going across the front of the construction site from the outer end of Cable Wharf.
Coming ashore at the far end of the Seabridge, you find yourself right outside the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. If the Seabridge doesn't appeal to you, or if it's temporarily closed, you can go around by land on Water Street, passing by the front of the Museum. This is one of the finest museums devoted to the sea and ships that I have ever visited.
Just across Water Street is another historic old warehouse building, now finding new uses.
One short block uphill on Prince Street, two of my fave restaurants sit right across from each other. The Old Triangle is a classic Irish pub, spread through three buildings up the hill, with live music on offer many nights.
Across the street is McKelvie's Delishes Fishes Dishes, an upscale but still casual eatery where I've had some of the greatest seafood meals of my life. The house signature dish is their fish platter, which consists of three local fish from the market -- typically shrimps, scallops, and salmon -- accompanied by a half lobster. Their chefs know how to get all four just right, and the resulting meal is worth every penny. This unique building was constructed back in 1906 as a firehouse, hence the high-arched window openings.
One short block uphill on Prince Street, two of my fave restaurants sit right across from each other. The Old Triangle is a classic Irish pub, spread through three buildings up the hill, with live music on offer many nights.
Across the street is McKelvie's Delishes Fishes Dishes, an upscale but still casual eatery where I've had some of the greatest seafood meals of my life. The house signature dish is their fish platter, which consists of three local fish from the market -- typically shrimps, scallops, and salmon -- accompanied by a half lobster. Their chefs know how to get all four just right, and the resulting meal is worth every penny. This unique building was constructed back in 1906 as a firehouse, hence the high-arched window openings.
Behind the museum, back on the Harbourwalk, is an unusually colourful and creative children's playground, with what has to be the most unique playground slide anywhere.
Next you come to this little "village" of colourful buildings housing food counters, tour boat ticket offices, and a couple of small shops.
Inland from this village area is another fine old stone building -- but this one isn't just an old stone building. This is the birthplace of products enjoyed all across Canada, and farther afield too.
Nearby on Water Street is another beautiful old waterfront warehouse now housing a large restaurant called -- what else? -- The Waterfront Warehouse. Another recommendable place with good eats, a fine selection of local beers and wines, and a spacious patio.
Moving farther south, you find the shoreline occupied by modern apartment complexes (low rise) with assorted shops and trendy restaurants. One pier is occupied by this peculiar art installation. The three lampposts represent a drunk passed out on the street, the drunk's friend looking on in concern, and a person urinating in public. Hmmm.
The south end of the Harbourwalk comes at the complex of passenger terminals, used today by the many cruise ships which visit Halifax. I was on this part of the Harbourwalk at the right time to catch this view of a ship departing.
A new memorial had appeared at the end of the Harbourwalk since my last visit.
This memorial was of particular interest to me because it lists, among others, the corvette HMCS Trentonian, sunk off Falmouth, England, in February of 1945. My uncle Gordon (my father's younger brother) lost his life in that sinking.
Another and more cheerful monument stands nearby: a statue of a Haligonian who changed the future of international travel forever when he put into service the first-ever fleet of transatlantic steamships -- Samuel Cunard.
He's posed with his hand resting on top of the engine room telegraph, a device that signals from the bridge to tell the engineers deep down in the ship's innards to speed up, slow down, reverse, or stop. Some time it would be great to get a photo of this statue with one of the current-day Cunard Line cruise ships passing behind it. They do call in at Halifax.
The terminal complex includes a large farmers' market, and several cruise terminals.
Terminal 21, though, is a bit different. It's a museum devoted to the waves of immigrants who arrived in Canada through this port at different time periods. By bringing us face to face with the experiences of some of our ancestors, this museum does an important service in reminding us that most of us Canadians truly owe our lives here to forebears who pulled up stakes and launched out into the unknown.
One block behind the passenger terminals you find the railway station, where the vast majority of these immigrants began their journeys into this new country to reach the places which would become in time their new homes.
And that, of course, also brings me back to the point where I arrived in Halifax. Ready to join the train back home tomorrow, as another wonderful stay in this beautiful city comes to a close.
Next you come to this little "village" of colourful buildings housing food counters, tour boat ticket offices, and a couple of small shops.
Inland from this village area is another fine old stone building -- but this one isn't just an old stone building. This is the birthplace of products enjoyed all across Canada, and farther afield too.
Nearby on Water Street is another beautiful old waterfront warehouse now housing a large restaurant called -- what else? -- The Waterfront Warehouse. Another recommendable place with good eats, a fine selection of local beers and wines, and a spacious patio.
Moving farther south, you find the shoreline occupied by modern apartment complexes (low rise) with assorted shops and trendy restaurants. One pier is occupied by this peculiar art installation. The three lampposts represent a drunk passed out on the street, the drunk's friend looking on in concern, and a person urinating in public. Hmmm.
The south end of the Harbourwalk comes at the complex of passenger terminals, used today by the many cruise ships which visit Halifax. I was on this part of the Harbourwalk at the right time to catch this view of a ship departing.
A new memorial had appeared at the end of the Harbourwalk since my last visit.
This memorial was of particular interest to me because it lists, among others, the corvette HMCS Trentonian, sunk off Falmouth, England, in February of 1945. My uncle Gordon (my father's younger brother) lost his life in that sinking.
Another and more cheerful monument stands nearby: a statue of a Haligonian who changed the future of international travel forever when he put into service the first-ever fleet of transatlantic steamships -- Samuel Cunard.
He's posed with his hand resting on top of the engine room telegraph, a device that signals from the bridge to tell the engineers deep down in the ship's innards to speed up, slow down, reverse, or stop. Some time it would be great to get a photo of this statue with one of the current-day Cunard Line cruise ships passing behind it. They do call in at Halifax.
The terminal complex includes a large farmers' market, and several cruise terminals.
Terminal 21, though, is a bit different. It's a museum devoted to the waves of immigrants who arrived in Canada through this port at different time periods. By bringing us face to face with the experiences of some of our ancestors, this museum does an important service in reminding us that most of us Canadians truly owe our lives here to forebears who pulled up stakes and launched out into the unknown.
One block behind the passenger terminals you find the railway station, where the vast majority of these immigrants began their journeys into this new country to reach the places which would become in time their new homes.
And that, of course, also brings me back to the point where I arrived in Halifax. Ready to join the train back home tomorrow, as another wonderful stay in this beautiful city comes to a close.
"In my end is my beginning."
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