Wednesday, February 22, 2023

Desperately Seeking Sunshine # 6: Half Moon in Full Sunshine

Due to unexpected technical difficulties, I was unable to carry on blogging while I was on the ship. Now that I am back in Canada, I have been getting caught up -- and with this post the travel blog for this trip is now complete. In a few more months, I’ll be doing another cruise on Princess, and after that trip I will do a detailed comparison of the two companies: Princess Cruises and Holland America Line.
 
 
Half Moon Cay is Holland America Line’s name for its private island, Little San Salvador Island, between Eleuthera and Cat Island in the Bahamas.
 
Unlike the Princess private resort stop at Princess Cays on Eleuthera, this is not just an enclave on an otherwise inhabited island. Carnival Corp., the owners of Holland America, bought the island outright from Norwegian Cruise Line in 2006. Ongoing development of the island has been carefully restricted by the company to just one-fifth of the total land area at the western end of the island, leaving the other four-fifths as a wildlife and bird sanctuary (basically the entire area beyond the large, enclosed body of water).
 
 
The evocative name harks back to the VOC (Dutch East India Company) ship Halve Maen (“Half Moon”) in which Henry Hudson conducted early explorations of the New York and Hudson River area.
 
When we arrived off the shore on Friday morning, we got an early demonstration of the difficulties inherent in running an operation like this on an otherwise uninhabited island.
 
 
The captain announced that we were having a  tough time finding a position for the ship which would allow us to anchor safely and still provide a calmer lee in which the tenders could safely come and go, shuttling people from ship to shore and back throughout the day. In fact, in the end the ship was unable to anchor and had to use its engines all day to maintain a safe position.
 
The captain also announced that the daily supply vessel, the Half  Moon Clipper, had been unable to make the crossing from Eleuthera due to the weather, and so a number of the daily staff would be missing-in-action, and services ashore would be somewhat limited.
 
The big consequence of that was the cancellation of all escorted tours for the morning, including my planned glass-bottomed boat ride. Sigh. Of course, in those conditions, and with a 25-knot wind blowing straight into the bay, it’s questionable whether we would have seen much  of anything at all in a glass bottomed boat once the wind and waves stirred up the sand.
 
So once tender operations had finally begun, was I going ashore? The answer is “No.” Like the companion Princess facility on Eleuthera, this one is primarily a beach, with eating facilities, a bar, private chalets, a little shopping, and a few waterborne and landside recreation opportunities. It’s not a gigantic amusement park such as Carnival Line has built for its guests somewhere else around this region. And I am just not a beach person. This would give me a nice quiet day on board, with relatively little crowding at the pool, and a chance to just relax and “don’t worry, be happy.”
 
In the meantime, though, here are a couple of further photos from the stern of the ship to show you what I was missing.
 
 
This picture shows one of the tenders shuttling guests from ship to shore. Behind it you can see some of the two-storey chalets which can be rented for some monstrous number like US$600 per day. Smaller chalets at smaller prices appear to the left.

 
In this photo, I zoomed in to get a good view of the tender sailing through the narrow winding channel to the island’s protected artificial harbour.
 
 
And after we’d all had a nice sunny day, ashore or afloat, the ship powered up and sailed away just after 3:00 pm on the final leg of the voyage, to arrive in Fort Lauderdale at 7:00 am the following morning. It was a great cruise and a fascinating chance to see a list of Caribbean destinations I've never visited before. Of them all, I think the one I would most like to visit again for a bit longer would be Grand Turk, perhaps because the small-town vibe is familiar, and perhaps because it hasn't been completely spoiled by heavy-duty commercial development -- yet.


 

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