Thanks to numerous writers and documentary filmmakers, the role of the Canadian Pacific Railway in the history of Canada is at least passing familiar to many Canadians. Much less well known is the parallel saga of the Intercolonial Railway, but its function of linking the Atlantic Provinces securely to the St. Lawrence Valley has proven just as critical -- not least as a military supply line during the two World Wars of the twentieth century. This was the first railway in Canada to be planned, built, and operated -- right from the outset -- as a government project.
So, for the second time in just over a year, I'm off by train to Halifax. I've done this overnight trip twice before, and this is my third go at it. I love it because it's an easy, not overly long voyage of discovery, and the time all passes in comfort thanks to the modern sleepers, dining car, and scenic dome car of the Ocean, the thrice-weekly overnight Montreal-Halifax train. Each compartment for two in the sleeper cars contains its own private washroom, and 60% of them have slightly larger washrooms which include a shower (these compartments go for a modestly higher price).
The train does not have WiFi service throughout, but the two "service cars" on either side of the dining car have a lounge area which offers free WiFi service. Any time you pass through there you will see a selection of serious internet addicts in the classic hunched-over pose, grimly staring at their phones and tablets.
If you choose to do this trip, be aware that VIA Rail now offers Sleeper Plus service (which includes three meals in the dining car) all year round on this train. It's well worth the modest extra charge. If you go with the cheaper Sleeper class and then try to buy meals a la carte, you'll end up paying more!
It's also definitely worthwhile to check out VIA's website every Tuesday for bargain prices. There are discounted fares in economy class on many routes throughout the system, and discounts are also available on sleeper fares for long range trains and for the upgraded "Touring Class" service on the Jasper-Prince Rupert train, which I have also ridden in the past. The Tuesday discounts are offered on selected trips for anything up to a month ahead of travel date. That's how I found the nice bargain fare I got for this trip!
When Confederation was under discussion, the leaders of the Atlantic region demanded a rail link to Central Canada as a condition for joining the new country. It was a mutually beneficial idea, because the existing harbours along the St. Lawrence River all freeze up during the winter, while the Atlantic ports (chiefly Halifax) remain open. A railway could channel Canadian products to overseas markets throughout the year.
This project was under discussion in the 1860s as the Civil War in the USA was wrapping up. Fearful of possible American military action against Canada, the planners decided to move the railway to the farthest north practical route, and thus created the long, roundabout track which the Ocean uses to the present day.
I can't resist the urge to quote from a favourite author of mine, Canadian satirist Eric Nicol:
Good for a chuckle, once you discount the obvious exaggeration!"Two routes were proposed: the southern, shorter route, and the northern, interminable route. For reasons of military defence the northern, interminable route was selected. The strategy worked one hundred percent. In the entire history of Canada no enemy has ever tried to take one of her railways. More than that, very few Canadians have tried to take one of her railways."
When the Intercolonial Railway began its 1904 timetable, the company called its brand-new deluxe train between Montreal and Halifax the Ocean Limited. Shortened to Ocean, it has maintained the same name ever since, thus reigning as the oldest named train in North America in continuous operation (111 years this summer).
The Intercolonial Railway's line ran from Levis, across the river from Quebec City, to Halifax. Running rights over the Grand Trunk Railway gave the trains access to the island city of Montreal via the 3-kilometre long Victoria Bridge. Today's train uses substantially the same route, with the addition of the short detour across the Quebec Bridge to the suburban station at Sainte Foy, west of Quebec City. Sadly, it bypasses the old riverfront track through Levis so you no longer get the spectacular view of Quebec City across the river, all illuminated by night.
The Victoria Bridge's huge stone piers, with angled bases facing upstream to fend off winter ice jams, date all the way back to the bridge's original construction in the 1850s. The steel trusses atop those massive piers were constructed in the 1890s to replace the original box-tube girder.
As for the Quebec Bridge, it was completed in 1919 (so it's 96 years old now), and still boasts the longest bridge span of cantilever construction anywhere in the world.
Those who are fascinated by these engineering works can certainly get a fine look at the Victoria Bridge during the daylight crossing in summer. Even though it is fully dark by the time the train crosses the river to Sainte Foy and back, you can still get a good impression of the Quebec Bridge, especially if it's a clear moonlit night.
These pictures are courtesy of the internet. For a look at some of the scenic highlights of the train ride, you can check out my post from last summer's trip here: To Atlantic Tidewater by Rail .
I'll be back in a couple of days with another post about some of the historic highlights of Halifax. My rail trip to the other end of the country comes much later on, in August.
For any determined voyagers who want to do the entire crossing of Canada from sea to sea in one go, this can only be managed westbound, leaving Halifax on Wednesday or Friday. (If you leave Halifax on Sunday, or travel from west to east, you will have to stop overnight in Toronto or Montreal.) When the Ocean arrives in Montreal on Thursday or Saturday morning, you have several choices of ongoing trains to Toronto through the morning and afternoon, depending how many hours you want to spend stopping off in each city. Once in Toronto, your time is your own until 10:00pm, at which time the majestic Canadian sets off on its 4-night odyssey to Pacific tidewater. But that story is for another day.
This is the first of a series of posts exploring the major rail routes stretching right across Canada from the Atlantic to the Pacific. In this one, a little bit of history behind the rail line from Montreal east to Halifax.
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